Obedience
Galen's Trial, My Tribulation PDF Print E-mail
Written by Rhoda Holder   
Thursday, 29 April 2010 11:07

 

On my birthday Galen and I entered the ring to do our first obedience trial.  He is a joy to train as he is so eager to please.  However I hadn't been in the ring for three years, the last time with Alvin in November 2007.  The longer that you are not in the ring the more nervous you become.  The more nervous you become, the more it will travel right down that leash.  If that is the case poor Galen might have thought his owner had been

transformed into another being. That was to be the least of my problems.

We did our entire routine with the exception of the recall.  I knew that until that point I had a qualifying score going, and given that this was his first time in with only three fun matches under our belt, he was doing just fine.  Until.

Galen and I walked to the spot to set up for the recall.  In this exercise you put your dog on a sit stay and walk the length of the ring, turn and face your dog.  The judge at the point will signal or tell you to call your dog.  Well, we ran into a small problem which took on a life of its own.  Galen wouldn't sit.  He just lay down.  I asked him to heel and we circled back to the spot and down he went again.  I reached down to pull him up.  It was then that the judge said, "No, you are not allowed to touch your dog."  This is not correct as at the novice level you are permitted to touch the collar to guide your dog into a required position.  Of course you can't argue with a judge so I was left to try everything else I could to get him to sit.  I called, I commanded, I cajoled him by squatting down and practically begged him to come to me, all to no avail.  The people outside the ring had no idea that the judge has forbidden me to touch my dog, but I was becoming increasingly frustrated and embarrassed at this amateurish demonstration.  After some not so helpful hints from the judge, and enough humiliation for that trial and any others in the near future, I threw the towel in and walked back to Galen, pulled him up by the collar, and gave him a couple of good pops.  You aren't allowed to correct in the ring either, so I had given up qualifying.  He did his recall and we left the ring in quite an unhappy state.

All of this could have been prevented had the judge just kept her comments to herself, which a good judge would.  In the end we did qualify, although I had to push him to the floor on the down stay because he didn't want to lie down then!  The whole incident was rehashed over dinner with the dog group.  In the end it was decided that an exhibitor can do what they want with their dog at any time and let the chips fall where they may.  If one gets n.q'd it could certainly be no worse than going through what Galen and I went through.  This should have been a pleasant occasion in qualifing with our first leg towards what I hope will be a successful career in obedience.  I thought that I had seen it all with Alvin, but these Norfolks seem to find new things in their repertoire to try to unsettle their owners' mental well being.

We still managed a 188 out of a possible 200 even with all the struggles and survived to tell a story in what may be a long, adventurous obedience life.  It won't be any time soon though.

Rhoda

 
Training 101 according to www.goodpooch.com PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 14 January 2010 20:45

 

Think of training a dog not as a military commander, but a clever psychologist.

 

Your job, as the dog’s owner, is to essentially trick the dog into thinking that something is fun to do. That’s it, really. Experienced owners will tell you that their dogs absolutely love nail trimming, bath time, or teeth cleaning, for example, because they’ve “tricked” them into thinking it is the most fun in the world.

 

As her leader, your dog’s entire world rests on her ability to get your attention. She wants you to notice her, so whatever causes you to pay attention to her is what she’ll do again and again.

 

This is a double-edged sword for the novice owner. A significant number of dog owners actually encourage the exact behaviours they don’t like. Barking at the door is a good example. Novice owners often pay lots of attention to barking dogs. This is a reward in and of itself. When the attention is accompanied by “human barking” (repeatedly yelling the word “no” or the dog’s name), the barking dog assumes the human is merely joining in.

 

What experienced owners do in these situations is quite different, and is the basis for most dog training. They actually teach the dog what they want her to do in a given situation. First, the barking dog is ignored entirely, just to avoid reinforcing the behaviour. If that doesn’t work to curb the barking, an experienced owner will teach the dog what s/he wants her to do when a person comes to the door. For most owners, that will be sitting quietly in the front hall or calmly alerting the owner. In the long run, the dog may learn to ignore knocks at the door entirely.

 

Don’t tell her “no”. Instead, ask her to “sit” or “down” or some other positive action with which she can comply. Teach her what you want her to do.

 

Many people get caught up in “correcting” problem behaviours without ever taking the time to consider if they’ve truly attempted to teach their dogs what they want them to do. In the end, nobody (not dogs, cats, horses, or people) learn effectively through negative commands. We can only do the right thing once we understand what is expected of us. That is positive command training, and it works!

 
Norfolks Can PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 14 January 2010 20:44

Your breeder has encouraged you to take your new addition to a puppy class…will you go?  Maybe it will take too much time?  Maybe you can train your dog on your own?  I hear this all of the time, but if you have searched for your Norfolk puppy and waited for months or years for her, your commitment level is huge!  You may well find the joys of attending a class addictive.  I know I did!  It will help you create a deep bond with your long anticipated new family member.  Learn each other’s language.  Learn how to be consistent and clear so that she can always trust your behaviour and communications. 

 

Young puppy or adult, find a fun and positive pet training class in your area.  If you are in Ontario, we are fortunate to have a large selection of great facilities and trainers.  No, I do not own any of them and am not selling any classes!  Daphne (my 2 year old Norfolk), and my Golden and I have attended many of them though.  She has done family pet training classes, and we are now currently taking classes in formal obedience, and agility and are on a flyball team.  Norfolks really can do it all!

 

The beginning of your journey together is likely a puppy class or a family pet training class.  Here you will lay the foundation for all of your training by teaching your puppy to pay attention to you, to respond to her name, and to LEARN TO LEARN!  This is an amazing thing – to see the light bulb go on!! “Oh, she is trying to teach me something!”   You will learn how to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash, to come when called, tricks, all in the hubbub of other dogs and handlers.  Practice downtown, outside shopping malls, at the schoolyard,   at the park with the squirrels… YIKE! All of this increases the bond between you as you interact.  It is simply awesome how much these little dogs can absorb and learn, all with fun and motivation.  I have never seen another Norfolk in any of my dozens of classes, but Daphne is so sharp and fast that she always stands out.  She is so eager to learn (or for the treat that follows!) that she is a joy to work with. 

 

The result of your pet training activities may be your participation in the Canadian Kennel Club’s (CKC) “Canine Good Neighbour test.  The test is non-competitive and consists of 12 exercises completed by the team of dog and handler.  The CKC awards a certificate to all dogs who successfully complete the test – this may provide a goal and focus for your training.  In order to pass the test, the evaluator is satisfied that the dog’s behaviour is acceptable in the home, she would be welcomed as a neighbour, is well mannered in the presence of other people and dogs, and is well groomed and allows examination and grooming.  A list of the exercises follows this article – it does sound quite stiff and formal but it is not!! It is very laid back and fun!  Do not worry, all of these things can be trained…and will flow easily from your class!  More about the test can be found at the CKC website: www.ckc.ca, email:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , or telephone 1-800-250-8040.  You will find other great descriptions of the exercises and training tips by doing an internet search of the Canine Good Neighbour test.

 

 
Canine Good Neighbour Test PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 14 January 2010 20:42

TEST 1 - ACCEPTING A FRIENDLY STRANGER

The evaluator will walk toward the handler and dog and greet the handler in a friendly manner, shake hands with the handler and ignore the dog. The evaluator is assessing that the handler is in control of the dog and that the dog is not threatened by the approach of a stranger.

TEST 2 - POLITELY ACCEPTS PETTING

The evaluator will request permission to pet the dog and will then proceed to pet the dog on the head and shoulders. The evaluator is assessing whether the dog remains calm while a stranger pets it.

TEST 3 - APPEARANCE AND GROOMING

The evaluator will ask for the grooming tool before the test begins. The evaluator will inspect the dog to determine if it is clean, groomed, appears in good health and in good weight. The evaluator will lightly examine the ears, teeth, eyes and each front foot of the dog and softly comb or brush it on the body. The evaluator will then walk behind the handler and dog, returning to face the team. The evaluator is testing for shyness and/or resentment.

TEST 4 - OUT FOR A WALK

At the beginning of the test, the evaluator will indicate to the handler the area in which they are to walk. The handler will walk in a straight line, demonstrating at least one right and left turn as well as a 180-degree turn. The evaluator will be assessing the dog’s ability to walk quietly near the handler without pulling the leash taut. The evaluator will note that the dog responds to the handler’s changes of direction.

TEST 5 - WALKING THROUGH A CROWD

The evaluator will instruct the handler to walk with the dog (on either the handler’s left or right side) through and by a group of several people (at least 5). The evaluator is assessing the dog’s ability to maintain a position close to the handler without being unduly stressed or becoming unruly, as well as the handler’s ability to control the dog.

TEST 6 - SIT/DOWN ON COMMAND AND STAY (LONG LINE)

The evaluator will provide the handler with a 6-meter (20’) line, which the handler should attach to the dog’s collar prior to the commencement of the test. The short leash should be removed once the long line is attached. The evaluator will instruct the handler to place the dog in either a sit or a down position, command the dog to stay, and walk to the end of the long line. The handler will then turn to face the dog and promptly return to the dog. The evaluator is testing for the dog’s response to basic commands.

TEST 7 - COME WHEN CALLED (LONG LINE)

The long line remains attached to the dog’s collar. The evaluator will stand near the dog and instruct the handler to position the dog in either a sit, down or a stand position. The handler will command the dog to “stay or wait” and then will walk a distance of 3 meters (8-10’), before turning and calling the dog. When called, the dog must come close enough for the handler to touch it. The evaluator is checking whether the dog will remain where left and will respond quickly to the handler’s command to come.

TEST 8 - PRAISE/INTERACTION

The evaluator will instruct the handler to command the dog to “Come”, and then to commence a play session with the dog. After about 10 seconds of play, the evaluator will then instruct the handler to calm the dog. The evaluator is assessing both the handler’s control of the dog and the dog’s ability to respond quickly to the handler’s command to settle.

TEST 9 - REACTION TO PASSING DOG

The test is set up using another handler/dog team that are not be evaluated. This team is placed 6 meters (20’) from the handler and dog being tested. The handlers and their dogs will approach on another, stop, shake hands, briefly chat and continue on past each other for approximately 2 meters (6’). The dog being tested should exhibit no more than casual interest. The evaluator is assessing behaviour on the part of the dog and the handler’s control of the dog.

TEST 10 - REACTION TO DISTRACTIONS

The evaluator will instruct the handler to begin walking with this dog on a loose leash beside him. Several people will walk by in any direction using one or more distractions. The distractions will not be an attempt to frighten the dog, but rather something the dog encounters in everyday life. Such as baby strollers, walkers, canes, someone carrying a ladder, etc. The evaluator is observing the dog’s reaction to the distractions as well as the dog’s response to the handler’s commands.

TEST 11 - SUPERVISED ISOLATION

The handler will walk with the dog to a designated person (assistant evaluator), and hand over the leash. The handler may command the dog to sit or lie down and wait/stay. Then the handler will leave the area and go to a pre-designated location, out of sight of the dog. The handler will wait 3 minutes until called to return by the assistant evaluator. The evaluator is observing the dog’s ability to maintain good manners when left alone with another person. The dog may show some mild stress, but should not bark, pace or pant excessively. Neither should the dog attempt to climb up on the assistant, nor pull away. (If the dog should become excessively agitated, the evaluator will call the handler back before the time required, and the dog will be judged “Not Ready.”)

TEST 12 - WALKING THROUGH A DOOR/GATE

The handler will command the dog to sit and wait. The handler will then walk through the opening (door/gate). Once through, then handler will instruct the dog to walk through the opening and return to the handler’s side. Alternatively, if the opening is large enough for the two of them to pass through simultaneously, then the handler may instruct the dog to maintain a steady position beside the handler as they walk through the opening together. The evaluator is assessing the dog’s ability to respond to commands from the handler as well as the handler’s ability to control the dog in a restricted area.


 


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